CLipping your 4-H show Goat
How to clip a goat for show 
 
Supplies needed
Water
Hose
Shampoo
Towels
Hair dryer, or simply, time. To allow goat to dry
Clippers (Electric and a battery operated set)
Clipper blades (Size 10 for body. Size 40 for udder)
Clipper oil
Stanchion with a chain (head gate type works just not a easily)
Scissors
 
First of all I want to stress that this is a job that is best learned by watching and having a person present who is experienced and available to give you guidance until you are comfortable clipping a goat. You can gain this advice at various goat seminars that are probably available in your county, or you can ask a senior 4-H showman in your group to help you learn. I do advise all 4-H kids to actually LEARN this step and not expect Mom or Dad to “do it for them”. A goat should be clipped 2 weeks before show so clipper marks will not be so noticeable. If you have a black goat I would suggest three or even four weeks as a black coat shows EVERY mistake and are almost impossible to blend. Take your time and be patient. Check your clippers often as they get very hot and will burn you and the goat. Apply clipper oil frequently as this cools the blades. Some people keep multiple blades and change them often.
 
Wash and dry or let your goat air dry. A dirty goat will dull your clipper blades quickly and your clipping will not be smooth and even. Brush the goat thoroughly in the direction of natural growth. Hair on a goat is clipped in the direction of the growth never against. Goats are not slick shorn as are sheep.
 
Put your clean dry goat on the stanchion.
Clipper blade number ten is used for the body
The hardest area to clip is the backbone and hips. These are the boniest areas so your clippers will tend to gouge the hair. I do these areas first. Begin by wetting your left hand (if you are right handed). Place the left hand in about the middle of the back but not directly ON the backbone. You need to be approximately three or four inches parallel to the back bone, press down firmly and pull the skin in a downward fashion. This will take the naturally lying skin off the backbone itself. You never want to run the clipper blades over this bone. Take your clippers and run them with the hair along this area directly above your left hand. Try to make one long smooth cut from withers to area directly above the hip bone. Remove your left hand and you will see that your first cut has smoothly shaved the back bone area. This step will have to be repeated on the opposite side. The same method is used on the hip bones. Never go directly over the bone pull the hair down and clip directly under and over the top of the bone. Your left hand may need to be placed further forward or backward as needed and is comfortable. When you have succeeded in getting the back and hips done smoothly, move on to the neck area. I shave from the poll down to the withers .Again in one smooth cut. It is similar to painting. Long smooth strokes prevent lines. Work your way around the neck. Move to the barrel and shoulders of the goat always going in the direction of the hair growth.  Then move onto the rump and thigh. If your goat is a bit skimpy in the rump you may want to try using a slightly larger clipper blade that will leave the hair a bit longer but if you do this, remember, you have to blend the hair in. For the novice or junior showman I would just work on keeping clipper marks to a minimum on my goat and stick with a 10 blade throughout the body.
 
When you are happy with the results of the body, it’s time to move on to the legs and the areas directly in front of and behind them. You will need a helper for this part. Start at the front legs. Have your helper take the bended leg and pull it back and upwards towards the stomach. This will give you a nice tight area with out wrinkles in the front part of the leg /chest area. Clip it as you have done before in smooth even strokes. Starting at the top of the area and working down. Have your helper then pull the leg straight forward; this gives you a wrinkle free skin in what would be the “pit” area and the chest floor. These naturally occurring wrinkles in this area are very easy to injure if they are not pulled taunt. Move on to the other front leg and repeat. The back legs are only pulled in a backward position and the area in front is clipped along with the rest of the stomach being careful around the milk vein if present.
If you are clipping a doe in milk use a set of battery operated detail clippers with a size 40 or 50 blade on the udder. Experience showmen often use a disposable razor. I don’t recommend this for juniors or for anyone who doesn’t feel confidant doing so.
On the lower part of the legs (from the knee / hock to the pastern) I simply trim off the long hairs .if any. with scissors and make the fringe of hair over the hoof even and neat.
The dew claws need a bit of work too. In a young animal (under a year) just clipping the hair around the dew claw is enough. With your thumb in the center outside part of the dew claw push in and up. This will cause all the hair around it to stand up. Simply clip the hair off, with your detail clippers while holding your thumb in place. You don’t have to be particularly careful here. When you remove your thumb all the long hair is gone and it looks professional!
Use your detail trimmers inside the ears removing all the hair and the goats’ beard, if present, along with any whiskers around the muzzle.
Finally the tail is clipped short from tail head up to within 2 inches of the tip. The tip is hand trimmed to resemble a paintbrush.
Step back from your goat and examine your work. If you notice a few long hairs here and there just scissor them off.
Clean your tools and put them away.